Tutorial: Quilted Camera Case

I was getting a pedicure this afternoon, reading the July issue of  In Style when a quote jumped out at me:

“Life without love is like a year without summer.” — Swedish proverb

So, let’s add a little love, shall we? Because God knows summer is here in full force. What better way to rock both love and a great summer than with a fun new tiny camera and a great quilted case to protect it? Think wristlet, but with a flannel fabric you are going to quilt yourself. And who doesn’t have a tiny digital camera at the bottom of her purse that gets banged around? Well, technically I don’t. But that’s because I carry my giant camera most places. But I know MANY of you do. Time to protect the camera baby with a pretty new little case.

Come on.

No excuses.

The same goes for all of my sewing projects. If I can do this, without a doubt, so can a trained monkey. So don’t tell me you can’t.

Prep: Get a fat quarter of flannel, a fat quarter of your B fabric , a fat quarter of quilt batting, and a pretty coordinating zipper, at least 8″.

Quilted camera case tutorial

First, buy a digital camera. In this case, an inexpensive camera perfect for a novice photographer.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Ladybug red.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Take the camera out of the packaging and arrange things nicely so they can be tucked into your finished case.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Get your supplies ready. Ballerina flannel? Check. Additional pretty pink fabric? Check. Zipper. Triple check.

Quilted camera case tutorial

So, I made this case with measurements to fit the camera, the accessories and a giant pack of batteries. Your case may need to be bigger or smaller depending on what you want to carry. This case is 10″ tall x 9″ wide, finished. I cut 1 piece of flannel 18″ in length by 7″ in height. I then cut my B fabric (pink in this case), 18″ in length by 3″ wide.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Right sides together, pin fabric A (ballerina) and fabric B (pink) together. Sew a 1/4″ seam along the top.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Press the seam flat.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Pin 18″ in width x 10″ in height of quilt batting to the back side of the joined fabrics.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Using 1″ freezer tape as a guide, carefully quilt 1″ lines going one direction on the fabric. (The tape will pull at the flannel if you aren’t careful. You may just want to eyeball this.)

Quilted camera case tutorial

Voila.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Then use the same piece of tape to measure the lines going the other direction. The result is a beautiful piece of quilted flannel. I did NOT quilt the pink fabric. This is a matter of aesthetics. Your choice, your style.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Then, cut the 18″ quilted piece in two. You now have your front and back pieces of your quilted camera case.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Now cut two more pieces of flannel. These are your linings. Cut each 9″ wide x 10″ tall.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Additionally, if you’d like a handle for your quilted camera case, cut one piece of flannel 4″ wide by 10″ long. Then iron in half length wise. Fold over, tucking all raw edges inside. Sew as close to all four sides as possible, closing in the the long raw edge.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Voila. Iron in half.

july 2 015

Blurry pic. Sorry. Take two pieces 2″ x 2″ of fabric B. Fold under one edge with your iron. Then pin to the edge of your zipper. Sew carefully along the tucked under edge. This allows you to create the exact size zipper you’d like. Once you have sewn both pieces of fabric (after measuring how long you need your zipper. In this case, we need one at least 9″ long), you can cut off the remaining part of the zipper.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Sew fabric B to zipper after measuring.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Don’t forget to be ridiculously egotistical and add your label to your lining piece too.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Then make your zipper sandwich. Place one front piece right side up. Line up the zipper edge on the top edge of your front piece. Then place your lining piece right side down on top of the zipper and front piece edges. Pin through all three. Sew with your zipper foot connecting your front piece to your lining piece #1.

Rinse and repeat for the other side of the zipper. If zippers freak you out, check out this prior tutorial for help. Also, this tutorial will walk you through connecting the front and lining pieces and attaching the handle.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Voila. Yes, that’s the third voila. I’m feeling very French.

Quilted camera case tutorial

Oui oui!

Quilted camera case tutorial

C’est bon, non?

Quilted camera case tutorial

Fill with accessories, wrap with pretty tissue, gift with pleasure.

Email me if you have questions. Hope you enjoy your quilted camera case!

~K

Tutorial: Stickerbook

Supplies:

Stickerbook tutorial

  • Two pieces of cotton fabric cut 13″ x 12″
  • One pocket piece of cotton fabric cut 8″ x 5″
  • Two pieces of ribbon, 6″ long, width of your preference
  • Wax paper
  • Stickers!

Stickerbook tutorial

Stickerbook tutorial

Directions:

1. Cut your book front fabric and inside fabric to 13″ x 12″. Iron these pieces in half width-wise, creating a stiff center crease.

2. Cut your inside pocket piece to 8″ x 5″

3. Turn the top edge of your pocket under, iron. Run a zigzag stitch along this edge.

Stickerbook tutorial

4. Place the pocket in the center of your inside lining. You can sew the pocket on either side of the lining. I sewed mine on the front lining.

Stickerbook tutorial

Stickerbook tutorialSe

Stickerbook tutorial

5. With the pocket attached, now you can select to add any embellishments (such as a bias-tape stenciled name). Or, you can keep it simple, as I am doing on this example. Place the front panel right side up. Place either piece of ribbon — cut 6″ long — with 1/2 an inch over the edge. These pieces of ribbon will serve as your ties for the book. Center these and then place the lining (with the pocket attached) right side down, sandwiching the ribbons.

Stickerbook tutorial

Stickerbook tutorial

6. Pin these pieces right side together, with just 1/2 inch of ribbon visible. Leave a 4″ gap between your beginning and stop points. You’ll later use this gap to turn the book right side out. Sew a 1/2 inch seam around each of the edges, make sure to leave the gap. Backstitch over your ribbon to make sure the are secured.

Stickerbook tutorial

Stickerbook tutorial

7. Trim your corners and any extra fabric. Turn right side out.

Stickerbook tutorial

8. Iron and make sure to turn under the gap hems. Sew the gap closed with a 1/4 inch seam and continue around the edge of all four sides, adding a nice top stitch.

Stickerbook Tutorial

Stickerbook tutorial

9. Trim your wax paper to fit the book; the easiest way to do this is to cut your wax pages the same length of the book (13″). I use 5 of these wax sheets.

Stickerbook Tutorial

Stickerbook tutorial

10. Pin the wax sheets in place. Run a tight zigzag stitch from the top to the bottom of the book, down the center of the wax sheet. This is making your book’s crease. Backstitch several times at both the beginning and the end.

Stickerbook tutorial

11. Fold in half, fill with stickers. Voila! A fabulous and inexpensive gift for any child.

Finished stickerbook!

One more thing you might want to consider: I just gave this book to a 3-year-old who was VERY excited to play with the stickers. In the process, the wax pages were pretty beaten up. It might make sense for younger children to attach your wax paper to a piece of card stock first and then sew them into the book to make the pages a bit more sturdy.

My favorite stickers, for the record, were the ones you got after seeing the dentist. Not only were they huge, but they also symbolized not having to go back to the dentist for quite a while.

~K

Tutorial: Reversible Ribbon Handle Tote

ribbon tote tutorial, right side out, completed

Want to learn how to sew an easy-peasy tote bag? There are gobs of other tutorials out there; I’m just adding my voice to the chorus. Be warned: my sewing is incredibly simple. I’m not a stickler for making things perfect so much as making them they way you like them and finding perfection in the process.

ribbon tote tutorial

First, find two fabrics you like. Wash, dry and iron these. Some other helpful supplies include a tin of pins, scissors, a rotary cutter and ruler and an iron. You’ll also need some wide ribbon for the handle.

ribbon tote tutorial, even off your bag lengths

Cut your fabric exterior and lining in two equal rectangles. Mine are 10 inches wide by 18 inches tall, doubled. In other words, my fabric is folded along the bottom.

ribbon tote tutorial, cut your pockets

Also, I created two pocket rectangles, each 5 inches wide by 8 inches tall. Cut these pieces out and iron them.

ribbon tote tutorial, uneven edges

I use my rotary cutter to even out my fabrics so they are the same size.

ribbon tote tutorial, pocket top edge turned under

Take both of your pocket pieces to your ironing board and turn under the top edge 1/4 an inch. Then turn it under again 1/4 an inch so your raw edge is not exposed. Iron this folded edge flat and then sew a running stitch (basic stitch) down the edge. Backstitch at each end to lock your stitches.

ribbon tote tutorial, pocket edges turned under, ready to be pinned, sewn

Once this is completed, come back to the ironing board and turn under the other three sides once. They don’t need to be double folded. Once you have these turned under, pin your first pocket to the center of your exterior piece (or where ever you’d like the pocket to be on the bag).

ribbon tote tutorial, pockets pinned

Repeat this with the pinning of the second pocket on the lining piece. Be sure to pin this pocket on just one side of the exterior and lining pieces. Stitch the remaining three sides down on the pocket, leaving the pre-stitched top edge completed. Voila — your pockets are done.

ribbon tote tutorial, select your ribbon for handles

Now take your ribbon and make two handles. I like my handles to be at least 18 inches long so I can get the bag over my shoulder. That said, you can play with the length to fit your needs. Place the first piece of ribbon with both raw ends matched up with the exterior top raw edge. Place these ribbon ends at least 8 inches apart. Pin the ribbon down.

Repeat on the other edge of the bag, making sure to also space them 8 inches apart. Fold the bag in half to see how the ribbon handles match up and adjust to make sure they are evenly spaced on both sides of the bag. Then sew these down, one at a time. I like to sew and backtack several times across the ribbon to make sure the permanency of the handle.

ribbon tote tutorial, right sides sewn together, ready to join lining, exterior

Now your handle is complete.

ribbon tote tutorial, sew right sides together

Voila! Now fold your exterior fabric together – right sides together. You should have two raw edges along each side and one raw edge along the top. Pin down each side and follow by sewing a ½ inch seam down each side. You can choose to sew across the bottom too – but for this simple tote I prefer to use the natural bottom created by the fabric’s fold.

Repeat this process by folding the lining right sides together and sewing both raw sides together. If you want to trim the bottom corners, you can. Also, if you have sloppy edges – you can trim these too. Just be careful not to catch your sewing in your scissors or you will have to sew the seam again.

ribbon tote tutorial, lining, exterior pinned together, leaving a 6 inch hole

Now turn the exterior fabric right side out. Carefully place the exterior bag inside the lining bag. The lining will be inside out – the right sides of the fabrics will be together when you place the exterior inside the lining. Tuck the ribbon handles between the lining and the exterior. This is an important step.

Starting at one side, match the seams and pin around the top raw edge of the lining and exterior bag top, leaving a 7 inch hole in the pining between two of the ribbon handles on one side. Once you have the lining and exterior pinned together, carefully sew a ¬Ω inch to 1 inch seam around the bag, being mindful not to sew all the 7 inch hole. Backtack at each end.

ribbon tote tutorial, sewing right sides together
ribbon tote tutorial, sewn together, leaving a hole

Now, carefully pull the exterior and lining through this 7 inch hole and iron flat. Then tuck the lining inside the exterior and iron flat, especially around the top edge where you will still have a 7 inch hole. Press and sew a top stitch around the top edge of the bag, closing the hole.

ribbon tote tutorial, stuffed with travel goodies, ready for adventure

Voila ‚Äì your reversible ribbon handle tote bag is complete! I’ve filled this one with travel goodies for one of my traveling companions this summer.

Other options to consider:
Use interfacing to make the bag sturdier
Use gussets at the bottom to make the bag stand up and not have a flat bottom
Use a grommet to create a key hole at the top of the bag

Perfect for the anti-plastic grocery bag movement, as a lunch tote, to keep in your trunk to manage the little things that seem to always be rolling around, to keep on the back of your bedroom door for junk you aren’t ready to sort through yet, etc.

Email me with questions or corrections. And let me know if you make one of these!

Chevroleg, 2.0

once filled with junk in my trunk (ha! no really, a tire iron and the such)
before

Take one $.99 Ikea bag, a bit of canvas for the lining, a square of cotton for the front key pocket, some yellow thread and voila: le Chevroleg, 2.0.

My new signature pose, apparently
inside pocket and velcro goodness
inside pocket
Wrapped up with leftover handle

For Salty. Next sewing project: girl’s dresses made from pillowcases. Have you heard of this?

~K

P.S. I’m doing my first Splash and Dash tonight. I’m a bit nervous. You’d think by now I’d be comfortable swimming in Tempe Town Lake, but it still panics me a little. I did a 2.4 mile open water a couple weeks ago and once again I was one of two idiots without a wetsuit. I was so cold, I couldn’t get my breath under control for 1000 meters. Thankfully, tonight the race is just 1000 meters and then some running (hence the dash). And no, this idiot still doesn’t have a wetsuit. Oy. Full algae and hyperventilation report tomorrow.

Tutorial: Jewelry Wrap

Christmas 2007: Jewelry Wrap Tutorial

Last year I was browsing the Red Envelope catalog (love their personalized gifts and earrings) when I saw a tiny photo for a leather jewelry wrap. My necklaces are pretty much always tangled because of the petite leather earring box I keep them in at the bottom of my gym bag. (Go figure.) I liked the idea of a small pouch that would help keep everything organized, so I studied the photo, asked Meg for some advice and took this project on as my homemade girlfriend gift for 2007. I ended up making 25 of these and giving them with a piece of handmade jewelry made by a local retired couple.

on the mantle, ready to be wrapped: Tenth Day of Christmas

{Three cheers for my pledge to buy locally and go handmade. Woot!}

stacked up on the couch: Tenth Day of Christmas
jewelry wrap: Tenth Day of Christmas
frida button: Tenth Day of Christmas
orange inside: Tenth Day of Christmas

They went over well and I tried not to let the backhanded, “Wow! This is so great. Your sewing is really improving,” sting after the tenth time it was said.
Anyway — a tutorial for you peeps interested in making your own fabulous jewelry wrap:

Supplies:
Cotton fabric
Canvas
Two zippers
Velcro
heavy-weight, iron-on interfacing
A button, needle, thread
Elastic

Directions:
Cut two rectangles measuring 11″ x 18″ from your front fabric and lining fabric. (I varied these.)

Cut one rectangle measuring 11″ x 18″ from your canvas. Set these aside.

Cut one necklace pocket measuring 11″ by 5″ from cotton fabric.

Cut two necklace pocket flap measuring 11″ by 3″ from cotton fabric.

Cut one ring holder measuring 11″ by 4″ from cotton fabric.

Cut one necklace pocket flap interface piece measuring 11″ by 3″.

Prep:
Take your two necklace pocket flaps and pin them right sides together. Now iron on the interfacing to one of these sides. Sew 1/4 inch seam around the edge leaving a 1″ hole to turn your work. Trim corners, turn right side out, press. Gently turn under remaining 1″ and complete with top-stitching around entire outside edge. Fold in half width wise and iron crease in center. Place 1″ piece of Velcro 1″ above the bottom edge. Sew around edge.
Put to the side. Your pocket flap is now completed.

Take your ring holder fabric and fold it in half length wise. Press crease. Now turn in 1/2 inch of the top and bottom edges toward the crease. Then fold in half again, completely enclosing your exposed edge. {You may have done this trick in the past to make purse handles.} Topstich around all edges. Don’t worry about turning the two ends under. We are going to add Velcro to one end and tuck the other between the seams when we sew all the pieces together.

orange edge: Tenth Day of Christmas

With a rotary cutter, cut your lining fabric into three sections, horizontally. You want these to be varying sizes. Mine were 3″ wide, 6″ wide and 9″ wide.

sewing ideas: Jewelry Wrap Tutorial

Sew the first two sections back together by adding a zipper. Then sew section one and two (now sewn together as one) with an additional zipper. Your lining fabric should now have three sections, with two zippers running across them horizontally.

zippers: Jewelry Wrap Tutorial

Take the necklace pocket and turn under the top (11″) edge twice. Zigzag stitch across this edge. Fold the pocket in half lengthwise and crease with an iron. Center your first piece of Velcro 1″ below top edge. Sew around the edge of the Velcro, attaching it to the necklace pocket. Pin the necklace pocket to the bottom of your wrap, well beneath the second zipper. Pin your completed necklace flap above the pocket, lining up the Velcro so they match.

ring holder closure: Jewelry Wrap Tutorial

Now place and pin your canvas rectangle behind your lining fabric. Place and pin your ring holder between your first two sets of zippers. You can either use a hot glue gun to add velcro to the lining and the backing of your ring holder, or you can sew these on before sewing the canvas. Your choice.

necklace closure: Jewelry Wrap Tutorial

Carefully sew a 1/2″ seam around the outer edge of the lining, sewing the canvas to the lining. Then sew a center divider (or two, like the photo above) to create compartments in your necklace pocket. Sew the pocket flap down. Then sew as close as possible to the top of each of the zippers to create actual pockets between the lining and the canvas.

Once these are completed, place your backing fabric and your completed lining right sides together. Place 1″ of coordinating elastic, turned in a loop, sandwiched between these. This will be used as your button closure. Stitch a 1/4″ around all edges, making sure to leave a 3″ gap to turn work right side out. I like to backtack over the elastic to make sure it is sewn firmly.

Turn right side out. Press. Turn under remaining 3″ hole and sew seam shut. Press again. Fold into thirds. Find appropriate placing for button and sew on by hand. Fill with bangles and bobbles and enjoy!

wraps, stacked: Tenth Day of Christmas
wrapped and ready: Jewelry Wrap Tutorial

Sixth Day of Christmas

cloth napkins, folded: Sixth day of Christmas

I wish for “green” gifts.
Cloth napkins anyone? How easy are these to put together! Just grab any heavy-weight fabric, such as decor, and cut rectangles of the size of your liking. Double fold the hem and stitch away, or single fold the hem and zigzag/serge stitch along the edge. Bundle with a pretty ribbon and voila — and end to the purchasing of paper napkins.

napkin fabric: Sixth day of Christmas
stack of napkins ready to be hemmed: Sixth day of Christmas
napkin tags: Sixth day of Christmas
six more gifts, sewn and ready to be delivered: Sixth day of Christmas

When I received a set of fabulous cloth napkins from Meg this year, I knew what I was going to do with that stack of toile fabric that had been gathering dust in my studio. Three hours later, I’ve got six more gifts wrapped and under the tree.
{Technically, my tree is fake and 2 feet tall, also a nod to the green movement. So, they are on the mantel.}

How are you being green this holiday season?
~K

P.S. Anyone in Phoenix know where I can buy fresh cranberries? I’d even take frozen over the canned/jelled variety. They are the last remaining ingredient on my Christmas dinner menu and I am kicking myself for not picking up a couple bags two weeks ago when I saw them at the market. You find them and I’ll trade you baked goods of your choice!
*UPDATE* I found them! Thank you Tambra and Erin!

Ribbon Tag Baby Blanket

recycled ribbon

Need an easy, soft and sweet baby shower gift? Take 1 yard of fleece, 1 yard of your favorite quilter’s cotton and 1 yard of your favorite ribbons. Pin the ribbon in the seam, sew the edges together, and voila! A cuddly gift, perfect for celebrating babies born this time of year — when we all want to stay under the blankets a bit longer.

wrapped and ready for a baby shower
my new tags -- yippee
Ribbon fleece blankie

~k

Baby Shower Forecast: Raining Zebras

packet of onesies

With baby shower invites in hand, purchase packages of onesies. These can be pre-printed onesies on clearance (ahem), or good old Gerber onesies.

supplies for onesie project

Print your favorite image on your laser printer on transfer canvas. Trim, seal color with a hot iron, prep onesie with a bit of T-shirt stabilizer.

zebra, pre-ribbon

Pin image over stabilizer on onesie. Carefully stitch around image with a new, brilliantly sharp needle.

African onesies, Zebra, wrapped and ready

Press again. Find coordinating ribbon. Tie and gift.

African onesies ready to be wrapped

Voila — African children’s wear and a creative, inexpensive shower gift idea.

A Junie Tutorial: Seatbelt Sleeves

Many of you know Junie Moon; she is that super positive, upbeat, incredibly kind sewer who posts amazing photos in her flickr account, but doesn’t yet blog. Well, she’s come up with a great summer sewing tutorial that must be shared. Thankfully, I’m the lucky duck who gets to spread the word.

Car Seatbelt Sleeve Tutorial, ala June:

Title Photo

The seatbelts in my car rub and irritate my neck. But obviously, I need to wear them as they can help if I ever get into a car accident (if you have been in a car accident then you can learn how to file a car accident claim in Oklahoma City here. Obviously, if you don’t live in Oklahoma City then this might be different, however, there are loads of other law firms that you can use to help you get the compensation you deserve. If you are still unsure about who to use then you could always check out a company like Frost Law Group, LLC. Getting into a car accident is an awful thing, but hopefully, if you are wearing a seatbelt then there shouldn’t be a problem. If, however, you have an accident that wasn’t your fault and it caused you an injury then it might be a good idea for you to get a lawyer (why not check out these attorneys for car accidents
here). However, even though my seatbelt is uncomfortable I will still wear it just in case (it is also the law). But luckily I am able to make these seatbelt covers to make them more comfortable. Since an old set I purchased wore out, I decided to make a new set myself instead of buying them. You don’t need much material for the seatbelt sleeves. I used leftover soft flannel from another project and bought car header liner at Jo-Ann’s Fabrics (in the home deco section near the vinyl fabric bolts). Here are the instructions and illustrations for you to make some for yourself. It really is easy.
The instructions are for one seatbelt sleeve. If you want to make 2 or more, then you’ll need to plan accordingly.
Step 1: Cut out fabric pieces as follows:
‚Ä¢ Exterior fabric: cut 2 9¬?-inch squares
‚Ä¢ Heading liner: cut 1 9¬?-inch square
‚Ä¢ Velcro: cut 8¬?-inches of ¬æ-inch wide Velcro

Photo 1

Step 2: Layer fabric pieces and heading liner as follows—one piece exterior fabric right-side up (facing you), one piece exterior fabric wrong-side up, and the heading liner material (it doesn’t matter which way this is facing). Pin in place and be sure to catch all 3 layers.

Photo 2

Step 3: Leaving a 3-inch opening in the middle of one side of the fabric sandwich for turning right-side out later, sew all 4 sides with a ¬?‚Äù seam.

Photo 3

Step 4: Trim all 4 corners by cutting on the diagonal, being careful not to cut through stitches. Then trim the stitched seams on 3 sides (not opening side) to approximately 1/8”.

Photo 4a

Next, move the seam of the exterior fabric on the 4th side over a bit and trim the header lining to 1/8” to cut down on bulk.

Photo 4b

Step 5: Turn right-side out so that the heading liner is in the middle and both exterior fabrics are on the outside. Turn the 3-inch opening inside by ¬?‚Äù and pin in place.

Photo 5

Step 6: Stitch ¼” inch around all 4 sides (which closes the 3’-inch opening, too).

Photo 6

Step 7: On left side of seatbelt sleeve, pin the rough (male) part of the Velcro along the edge. Stitch the Velcro around all 4 sides.

Photo 7a
Photo 7b

Step 8: Turn project over so that the Velcro you just installed is on the right but facing down on your table. Measure over 2¬?‚Äù from the left edge of the side now facing you and mark down the left side of the sleeve.

Photo 8a

Place the right edge of your soft fuzzy Velcro side (female side) along your 2¬?‚Äù mark and pin in place. Stitch the Velcro around all 4 sides.

Photo 8b

Step 9: You are done and can install in your car by folding it around your seatbelt. Make more for all your passenger seatbelts, if you wish.
Car Seatbelt Sleeve Tutorial written and executed by June Scroggin, 2007
Photos © by Dub Scroggin, 2007

Sewing 101: A Wristlet, Zipper Tutorial

I never thought the day would come when I felt comfortable enough to share my wee sewing knowledge with others, but here we go. One of the most common Google searches bringing people to my site is “wristlet tutorial.” Until today, they were misled.

A few things before we begin:
~ A wristlet is a small zippered pouch with a ribbon bracelet so it can be worn around the wrist.

~ My sewing is very much like Rachael Ray’s cooking — not at all precise, but a lot of fun.

~ If I can sew a zipper, a monkey can sew a zipper.

What you’ll need:
Scraps of fabric to create:
2 exterior squares, 8″ x 8″
2 interior rectangles, 8″ x 7″
1 7″ zipper
1 label — if it’s your fancy

Pick your scraps

1. Sort through your fabric scraps and figure out what you’d like to use. I was going with red themes for this wristlet.

Cut your scraps to fit your desired size

2. Trim your scraps to fit the aforementioned sizes. I like to make the exterior a bit bigger than the interior lining because it is easier to turn and finish.

pin pieces right sides together, sew

3. Once you’ve cut your scraps to the dimensions, place them right sides together, pin and sew. The seam allowance is up to you. I typically keep my seams at 1/8″, but like I said — I’m not terribly precise.

viola -- your lining pieces (top) and your exterior pieces (bottom) are ready to be zipped

4. Line up your sewn pieces. Here I have the inside lining pieces on top and the exterior pieces on the bottom. {If you would rather try this tutorial without sewing together scraps, this is where you’d jump in.}

place your zipper wrong side up on the top edge of the front of your wristlet

5. Take your front exterior piece and place your zipper on top of it. Match the top edge of the zipper with the top edge of the right side of the lining. Place the zipper with the right side DOWN. (Also it is a good idea to make sure the zipper works before sewing it into place.)

zipper sandwich -- exterior right side up, zipper right side down, lining right side down on top.

6. Now place your first lining right side down on top of the zipper. You’ve just made a sandwich: front exterior right side up, zipper right side down, lining right side down.

zipper sandwich pinned

7. Pin into place.

first zipper foot use -- sewing exterior, zipper and liner together

8. Use your zipper foot and ever so carefully sew these layers together.

9. Iron these pieces flat.

label sewn

10. Sew your label into your other lining piece.

11. Place your second lining piece (with your label) right side up. On top of this, place the portion of the wristlet you’ve already sewn, right side up. At this point, your layers should be: second lining, first lining (sewn to zipper), exterior fabric (sewn to zipper). On top of this, place your second exterior fabric right side down. Match all edges to the top edge of the zipper. Pin. Sew.

front side of wristlet after zipper is done

The front of your wristlet should now look like this.

back side of wristlet after zipper is done

The back should look like this.

be sure to open the zipper

12. Iron all four pieces flat, and tug at the seams with the zipper, making sure to everything as pressed as possible. Now be sure to open the zipper.

add your wristlet ribbon at an angle
pin front and back together, and lining together

13. Cut a piece of ribbon or bias tape and fold in two. Take both exterior pieces and pin them right sides together, with the ribbon in between the pieces. The ends can hang out — you’ll trim them later. Pin the lining pieces right sides together too.

stitched around all edges, leaving 2 inch gap, clipped corners
very carefully use your zipper foot to place zipper

14. Get rid of your zipper foot (we’re done with the zipper! Wahoo!) and replace it with your regular sewing foot. Sew an 1/2″ seam (or so) around the entire edge of the exterior and lining — leaving a 2 inch gap in the lining. When you get to the zippers, hold your seams together and slowly sew the layers together. Be careful not to sew over a metal zipper or you’ll break your needle.

wristlet right side out, lining out
hole in the lining we use to turn the wristlet right side out

15. Clip the corners and trim off any extra ribbon and fabric that may get in the way. Now, turn your wristlet right side out through that 2 inch hole you left in the bottom of the lining.

Lining sewn shut

16. I like to iron this baby flat again at this point. You should have your exterior right side out and your lining right side out. Sew the two inch hole in the lining closed. I like to sew the entire bottom seam of the lining for consistency.

Finished wristlet

17. Push the lining down into the exterior. Pull your zipper closed. Iron. Photograph. Pat yourself on the back. Voila — a zippered wristlet!

finished front of wristlet

{Questions? Email me!}
~K