Malawi 2011

January 3rd

The cottage

Lake Malawi

I opened my eyes to the New Year on African soil; never has a year of my life begun with such potential, hope and happiness. There is something wild, simple, beautiful  about this continent that I love unconditionally. The flights from Phoenix to Heathrow to Johannesburg to Blantyre were uneventful and easy; I slept, watched far too many movies, read 300 pages of a novel and dreamed of what the next three weeks of holiday could include.

I was greeted at the airport by Jimmy – a family friend. In one swoop, my handful of luggage and my exhausted frame were bundled into a truck, headed three hours north to Lake Malawi. My holiday coincided with their family holiday; I would join a gaggle at the cottage at Cape MacLear – one of the southern-most points on the lake.

Soon after arriving, I was hustled into a speed boat with Matty, his brother Shaun and a handful of their expat friends. We grazed across the lake with such speed, music blaring, green Carlsburg beer bottles tossed back with the sun setting. The tropical weather made my skin shine, my hair thick and my shoulders relax. It was the temperature and weather of perfect. Mary Poppins perfect. Not too warm. Not too cool. Simply right. Watching the first sun set of the new year, surrounded by old friend and new, on one of Africa’s largest lakes was true bliss. I said no fewer than a dozen times, “I cannot believe how lucky I am. This is my life!”

Village kids

The cottage sleeps ten and sits a hundred feet from the beach. I was given a tour of the beach by Jimmy.

“Look at those stars, Kelli. Tell me you have stars like this in America.”

“They are hidden, but they are there.”

“They are?”
“I’ve never seen the Milky Way in Mesa, but I’m sure they are there.”

“I like your optimism.”

Long after he’d retreated to the dinner table, I remained with my neck craned, mouth wide open with awe, staring at the heavens. The planets, an off red. The sky, as black as the shade is made. The twinkle of millions of stars – spread out like diamonds thrown upon black velvet, shimmering on the opaque lake below. Truly glorious!

My room included a tidy bed with a white mosquito net, a large picture window with a view and a lake breeze that lulled me into a deep sleep after a festive African braai – steak, sausage, ribs, salad. I awoke 12 hours later miraculously with no jet lag; the same group of friends were on the patio where I’d left them after the braai, sitting in the shade of the giant cashew tree now enjoying a traditional English breakfast – eggs sunny side up, toast, sausage and grilled tomato. It hit the spot and certainly beats the lonely bagel with peanut butter I’m used to eating before hustling off to work.

Speared!

One of a dozen fish he caught

Today, we spent hours on the lake snorkeling, fishing, reading, lounging and day-dreaming. Matty was the master of the fishing pole; his brother and friends were embarrassed by the mass of fish he caught. I summoned ever bit of courage I had to snorkel; there are crocodiles in this water, although more than likely not in our part of the lake. Still, my heart raced as I swam along in the deep water, bright blue and yellow fish swimming along with my bubbles. They call Lake Malawi the calendar lake; it is 365 miles long and 52 miles wide.

I am in love with Malawi and this holiday could not have come soon enough.

~K

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6 Responses

  1. It’s a peaceful morning outside my window, the remains of snow dotting the ground, bags from our ski trip waiting to be unpacked, one kid back at school, one daughter getting ready to go back to CO, and one son asleep upstairs, depressed because he has lost his license for 3 months due to a mid-December speeding ticket. This morning is mine…and it was so lovely to see your pictures from Malawi and bathe in the serenity of YOUR morning there, get out of my own head for a moment and travel, however vicariously, to Africa.

  2. Love it! Enjoy yourself!

  3. Ah, thank you for the desk-lunch travel…I can feel my shoulders sinking down from my ears too…glad you are enjoying Kelli!

  4. I read your post this morning with Tau eating breakfast on my lap. I only got halfway through before the questions started. He was fascinated with Matty’s fish: “Hey, that dad (!) caught a fish!” and with the way he had a finger in the gill … “Did he cut a hole at his head?” And so we had a long discussion about the function of gills! So glad you are having such a fabulous time! Enjoy!

  5. This life is beautiful, isn’t it? Enjoy…

  6. Oh, I’m so jealous– Lake Malawi is one of my favorite places in the world. Last January I spent a long weekend getting stared awake at about 6 every morning by a snorkel-and-goggled little girl who was VERY excited to spend every possible moment in the water.

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