Um, I meant Coca Cola

August 25th

Yesterday I entered a small curio shop in Entre Rios — a village in southern Bolivia. I was thirsty and wanted a break in the day. I asked a girl working behind the counter for a ¬¥¬¥coca¬¥¬¥ and in any other Hispanic country I¬¥ve visted, I would have received a tall, icy glass bottle of sugary refreshment. While I¬¥d nearly kicked my soda habit state-side, in Bolivia the water is parasite ridden and I¬¥ve already gone through too many Immodiums on this short adventure. Instead of handing me the expected Coca Cola, she passed over a small green bag full of leaves. I looked at them for a second before I realized she¬¥d handed me coca leaves — the plant from which cocaine is produced.
Um, no.
It is cuturally acceptable here to chew a large wad of these leaves as though it were chewing tobacco in the big leagues of baseball in the mid 1980s. Yet to get the full effect, you also need alkaline. I´m no chemist and didn´t ask any more questions than I had to, but I nearly fell over from shock when I watched one of the Bolivian surgeons this week stick a handful of leaves and then a small gray stone in his cheek before entering the surgery suite.
Gulp.
According to the Bolivians, coca leaves cure everything from headache to heartache to diabetes and cancer. They love to tell detailed stories of how their coca plantations still send large amounts of ¬¥¬¥legal¬¥¬¥ cocaine to the Americans to be put in Coca Cola. I just nod and smile and keep my thoughts to myself. (These coca leaf thoughts are filed right next to my Evo Morales thoughts — both of which are better expressed with both feet fully planted on tierra firma/Americana.) This trip has been eye-opening and fantastic in so many ways. We accomplished 27 sugeries in three days, helping people who would otherwise have lived in pain for the rest of their days. The patients were young and old, fat and skinny, dark and light skinned, but all exceptionally poor. These are rural farmers who plant what their families can eat and what they hope to sell in the market for a few Bolivianos. You can imagine what an abdominal hernia would do to put a kink in that routine. Gall bladders, hernias and varicose veins were the surgeries du jour. It was shocking at first to be standing next to the surgeons, watching them perform a choreographed dance of elegance that I couldn¬¥t have previously imagined. The blood and gore of it all took a bit to stomach, but by the end I was handing off suture and smiling when the patients came too, gurgling and gasping for breath. This work is awesome.
On a personal note, this trip has already brought me back to earth. Yesterday I met two 26-year-old Bolivian women who were in the hospital maternity ward. One had just given birth to her fourth child, a girl. The other had given birth to her third child, a boy. I looked at these women and their children and couldn´t believe that we were the same age. We couldn´t be any more different. And yet, I bent down and asked one of them if she was a little bit scared and with dark eyes shining, she admitted she was. Even though she´d done this several times before, this wee one at her breast has us both amazed. Sometimes we are all more alike than we immediately see.
Bolivians are a kind, generous people with true national pride. I am enjoying my time in their country.
In a few days I head out to a different rural province to see our public health projects at work. We are fighting Chagas disease in this country. If you haven´t heard of it, I hope you´ll take a second to look it up. It is a horrible parasitic disease that preys on the poor and is endemic in Bolivia. More than 60% of the population is infected and there is no cure. The treatment is too expensive (at just $30) for most.
It will be great to see how we are preventing this disease and helping a few families along the way.

Hasta luego amigos,
Kelli

Posted in
Journal, Public Health, Travel
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16 Responses

  1. I just can’t even believe you actually DO this stuff…

  2. The story about the coca is really funny, and it’s amazing all the things you guys are doing, really amazing and interesting.

  3. Rebecca August 25, 2006

    Thinking of you. Certainly hoping that you stay safe.

  4. Shelley August 25, 2006

    What an eye-opener. I admire what you are doing and to have such meaningful work that makes a visible difference in people’s lives is really something special. Good luck!

  5. Kelli! I was so thrilled to hear from you today 🙂 Your trip sounds like an amazing adventure. I looked up Chagas & was horrified. How wonderful that you are helping to prevent people from having to endure the horrible disease. Stay safe & well! Jess

  6. As always, I’m proud to tears of the work you do. Your strength amazes and inspires me.

    And, as usual, you’ve scared the crap out of me with another freaky disease. This time, from a nasty looking bug. Does this thing have a big pointy horn? Gah!

    I can only hope that you are staying “in hotels, resorts, or other well-constructed housing facilities” while you’re in Bolivia.

    Love you, cokehead.

  7. Wow! So many interesting things to read.

    Are you taking Polaroids of these new mothers and their wee babes???

  8. Take good care of yourself, Kelli.
    You are doing amazing things – thank you so much for sharing your adventures.

  9. Thanks for keeping us all updated as we travel vicariously through you. How cool it must be to have a job where you really feel like you can help make a difference.

  10. Wow Kelli – you’re amazing! Even if you do have dubious recreational habits 😉 Cocoa, who woulda thunk it. So cool you could cope with the surgery!

  11. Sarah HB August 26, 2006

    Sounds like a good deal…suck in some coca and a rock.

    Get a little “wasted”. Um, not so much.

  12. So I read that they are called “kissing” bugs? The bugs that cause Chagas? Poor choice of names I think. How disturbing. I’ll echo everyone else that I am glad you are able to make a difference in people’s lives. It must be so frustrating that there is really no way for these people to prevent themselves from being infected. I also think it’s great that you are able to keep a sense of humor about some things! 🙂 Be careful – don’t let any bugs kiss you.

  13. I am enjoying your posts! Keep up the good work and stay away from the cocoa leaves! 🙂

  14. ok – in true rosie form, i’ll be the one to say bring on the coca leaves! i am all for natural remedies. it’s when you add the chemmies and the processing that the coca leaves are no longer something good!

    (can you bring me some? haha)

    glad to hear the trip is going well. be safe and stay healthy!

    (i JUST got your thank you note- i moved so it took awhile to forward. and i knew you were in bolivia so it was like you were speaking from beyond…ok that sounded morbid.)

  15. Keep up the good work, can’t wait to see your photo’s.

  16. Google is the best search engine

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